Backplate exploded
Routine 15 : Solenoid removal & cleaning
I'll begin by stating that this part is typically unecessary in terms of maintenance but more for familiarization purposes only. Rarely will you ever need to perform this routine, however I wanted to show the steps to access this area and some areas of potential concern with dirty air fills.
Backplate exploded
We'll begin by removing your breech knob on the back of the marker. Position the breech retention rod on the non-stationary side of the breech door as pictured, thus keeping the rod fully extended clear of the back of the marker. Remove the breech knob by turning counter-clockwise.
There are two screws on the rear of the backplate, using the XXmm metric wrench, remove one of the two screws. While applying constant pressure to the backplate, remove the 2nd screw. Keep constant pressure on the backplate once this second screw is removed.
Gently remove the backplate from the rear of the marker, taking note of the spring located next to the breech rod. This spring will shoot out of the back of the marker if the proper steps aren't taken when slowly removing the backplate. I recommend removing both the spring and the breech rod while you're here.
Remember these initial steps, as you'll need to repeat them to remove the battery, fix the on/off, replace the backplate and adjust/remove the ram.
Now comes the site rail. Looking from overtop the marker, remove the site rail screw that is located in the center of the rail using the XXmm metric wrench. You'll notice on the removed site rail, grease residue on the sides that were used from the factory. This will assist in removal of the rail as it fits extremely snug in the body. I recommend using the same wrench for the site rail screw to gently slide the site rail off.
With the site rail now off the marker, you expose the solenoid. The solenoid itself sits extremely loose in the rear of the marker without the retention screw.
Go ahead and take the solenoid out of the marker and remove the three secondary components from underneath it, taking note of how they are configured.
There are three components, two made of rubber and one of plastic. The middle rubber spacer sits between the plastic gasket and the receiver, and the right rubber spacer sits between the plastic gasket and the main solenoid body. I recommend wiping off both rubber spacers and then reapplying a light film of grease. I also recommend cleaning the spaces in the plastic gasket for potential debris or dirt in the that maybe lodged in the openings.
Using the above image, place the three second components, underneath the solenoid main body. Ensure the solenoid lines up with the tray in the receiver body and that the gaskets sit properly. Slide the solenoid wire off to the side and reinstall the site rail, followed by the retention screw. Ensure that the retention screw is firmly in place, not allowing the solenoid to seat improperly during operation.
The tricky part of this operation will be making sure the three secondary components are lined up properly. If they are not, the marker will not cycle properly due to improper air flow to the solenoid, causing tremendous shootdown and low FPS on your shots.