Once the trigger frame is removed, you'll want to remove the exhaust guide grub screw, located on the underside of the body between the gas diverter plate and the front most vernier wheel. Remove this grub screw with care
Routine 13 : Exhaust valve/guide removal
- Remove the grip cheek cover by removing the 6 retaining screws and using a
metric 2.5mm Allen key.
- Unplug the battery and solenoid plugs
- Remove the 2 grip frame screws holding the frame to the body using a suitable 3mm Allen key.
- Remove the grip frame from the body.
- Ensure the SENSI rod is not lost.
- Pull out the exhaust valve retaining pin located in the body using suitable grips.
- Remove the right end cap or volumizer.
- Remove the valve spring support bobbin .
- Remove the valve spring .
- Remove exhaust valve stem .
- Using a suitable blunt hooked pick carefully retract exhaust valve guide by
inserting the pick into the exhaust valve hole that the exhaust valve stem located into.
- Inspect and service parts as necessary.
IMPORTANT NOTES: For re-assembly of components
- Care must be taken so that the bore is not scored or the seals damaged.
- Ensure the exhaust valve guide body is free from damage that may score the bore.
- Ensure you do not damage the exhaust valve guide sealing face.
- Ensure the location hole in the exhaust valve guide is in the correct orientation to
the lock hole within the main body prior to refitting.
- Slowly insert the valve guide pushing it down with a blunt soft faced rod.
- When the holes line up insert the lock pin into the hole.
- Ensure the SENSI rod is re-inserted.
- Ensure no wires become trapped between the body and grip frame during
re-assembly.
- Ensure the plugs are located in the correct sockets.
View the following routines to remove the trigger frame and ASA
Once the trigger frame is removed, you'll want to remove the exhaust guide grub screw, located on the underside of the body between the gas diverter plate and the front most vernier wheel. Remove this grub screw with care
Remove the volumizer or end cap from the left side (as looking at the marker from the front). Remove slowly as the bobbin is under pressure from the valve stem spring
Tilt the marker forward and the three components will fall out of the marker. First is the plastic bobbin, then the spring, followed by the exhaust valve stem which slides into the exhaust guide, still located in the body.
Using an allen key, apply gentle pressure to the exhaust valve guide which may be stuck in the receiver tube. A blunt tip hook also works, however I've found this method to be equally effective. The guide will more than likely need to be pushed all the way out of the receiver tube, forcing you to switch to a hook for easier extraction.
Now that the guide is removed, ensure the chamber tube and guide are wiped off thoroughly, and a light coat of love juice is applied to the two external o-rings on the guide and the seal on the stem.
I typically run a battle swab through the chamber to ensure excess grease, debris or dirt are removed from the walls. This ensures the operating area of the component is clean, in addition to the component.
Notice the dirt removed from the exhaust valve guide and ram after only 8 cases of use
The slot on the right side of the exhaust valve must be reinserted to line up with the grub screw hole on the bottom of the receiver. This grub screw keeps the guide in place under pressure and is essential to functionality. You can visually line it up before reinserting the guide and lock it in place with the grub screw.
Once the guide is reinserted into the receiver and locked appropriately, reinsert the valve stem with the tip going in first. It will seat directly into the valve guide hole. Follow this by placing the spring in so that it sits in the center of the valve stem flush end. Lastly insert the bobbin so that it sits with the tip end into the spring. Take care in reinserting the volumizer or end cap as the spring will provide a counter-weight on the volumizer/end cap through the bobbin.
This task does not require a tool kit, as it is no longer located behind the LPR. It appears to be much harder than it really is but the task still requires a steady hand and that everything is reinstalled properly. Occassionally the exhaust valve stem may leak and this can be due to worn seals (three of them). Often times the valve stem itself will need to be replaced or just cleaned and relubricated.